( Foto: Harry Fisch )
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Un viaje fotográfico al Kutch.
A photographic journey to Kutch.
How to use a photographic umbrella in the desert
Dhanraj Malik Prince, son of King Malek Shri
Mahomed Mahomed Shabbirkhanji Azizkhanji is a real personality in his
region. He owns a camp as well as an
orphanage. He resolves disputes between
his subjetcs. Next to him, , holding an umbrella, a worker of the salt pans.
We are in the desert of Kutch, India. Near Pakistan.
Dhandrash Malik, "Bapu" or "Excellence" for the rest of us, is the current owner of the camp. Although legally his title is depreciated, in practice he still reigns as prince of a "state" of 78 km2 and enjoys the sovereignty over 7 villages. The locals and Rabaris (nomadic tribes) are still asking him to act as the judge, settling disputes instead of submitting the cases to official institutions.
Me preguntaba un amigo qué es lo que hace ese señor, con un paraguas blanco y brillante, en medio del desierto.
Evidentemente, le contesté, hace el indio.
Pero no un indio cualquiera.
El príncipe Dhanraj Malik, hijo del rey Malek Shri Mahomed Shabbirkhanji Mahomed Azizkhanji, es una auténtica personalidad en su región. Mantiene uno de los campamentos al que vamos en los viajes fotográficos de Nomad Expediciones Fotográficas y, además, un orfanato. Dirime disputas.Junto a el, sosteniendo el paraguas, un trabajador de las salinas.
- Bapu ("Excellence") , I asked the prince , what are these people doing ?
- Waiting, he states without changing the gesture, staring into space.
- And what do they wait for? , did I say almost whispering not to be too rough.
No response. Bapu looks distracted at the lake. His answer takes an eternity.
- A talk with me, answered Bapu. - Silence and another sip.
- How long will they have to wait for ?
- As much as needed ... If they want me to take care of their problem. -
Time goes on and slowly, the prince decides, more as of courtesy to me that as deference to his subjects, to deal with the matter. He politely asks my permission and starts his work. The old lady looks about eighty, impeccably dressed as Rabari . Her husband of the same age, entirely dressed in white. Finally, the hearing ends after ten minutes. The couple leaves respectfully.
Estamos en el desierto del Kutch, India. Cerca de Pakistán.Dhandrash Malik, "Bapu" o "Excelencia" para el resto de los mortales, es el actual propietario del campemento. A tesar de$que, legalmente, su título estǡ en dewuso, en$la prágtica sigue ejergiendo como príncipe de$un "Estado" de 78 km2 y con soberanía sobre 7 pueblos. Los habitantes de la zona y los Rabarís (tribus nómadas) siguen acudiendo a el para que juzgue las disputas en lugar de dirigirse a las autoridades judiciales oficiales.
Tuve el privilegio de asistir a una audiencia, bajo la veranda . Sentados, mirando al lago - es propietario de un precioso lago en el escaso pueblo de Zainabad - sorbiendo el chai mientras conversamos pausadamente en inglés. A dos metros escasos , a su izquierda , en cuclillas en el suelo y jugueteando con la tierra, un anciano matrimonio de Rabaris espera en silencio. Llevan más de 45 minutos en el mismo sitio. Seguimos charlando sobre nimiedades. Pregunto, como distraido, al príncipe:
- Bapu ("Excelencia"), ¿Qué hace esta gente?
- Esperar- dice sin cambiar el gesto, mirando al infinito.
- ¿Y a qué esperan ?- casi en un susurro para no resultar demasiado rudo.
No hay respuesta. Bapu vuelve a sorber mientras dirige la mirada distraida al lago. Pasa una eternidad.
- A hablar conmigo, responde Bapu.- Mientras se repite el silencio y un nuevo sorbo.
- ¿Y esperarán por mucho tiempo?
- El necesario para que me ocupe de su problema. -
I can not stand
the curiosity I turn to the prince smiling:
- What was the problem?
- The daughter has left her husband.
I was stunned. In this part of India a woman does not leave her husband. A dog probably, even a goat. But not a woman ...
- Did she really leave her husband? – I said unable to hide the wonder in my face - just like that?
Bapu seeing my face started to laugh sincerely
- No, no! - With a laugh – she run away with another man ..
Now I'm more relaxed. Everything fits. Everything falls into place.
- What do the parents expect from you? - Wonder.
- They want the woman back to the husband
- And..?
- The new man is asking one "lack" (100,000 rupees) to give her back , says Bapu seriously.
This is how things are around here. Two thousand euros is roughly the price for a good daughter in law ! A huge amount. The problem will be for the lady once the amount is finally paid .... Despite my astonishment, I pretend that all this is normal to me . If a prince, educated in England, shows no discomfort, who am I, a host and newcomer , to discuss such facts. .....
Shri MOHAMMED SHABBIR Malik (born 1941), married to Riddhi Rani Malik (born 1940)
Shri Malik Jorawar ZAIN KHAN KHAN (1st October 1885-January 1923), succeeded 9th February 1906, married and had an issue.
- The daughter has left her husband.
I was stunned. In this part of India a woman does not leave her husband. A dog probably, even a goat. But not a woman ...
- Did she really leave her husband? – I said unable to hide the wonder in my face - just like that?
Bapu seeing my face started to laugh sincerely
- No, no! - With a laugh – she run away with another man ..
Now I'm more relaxed. Everything fits. Everything falls into place.
- What do the parents expect from you? - Wonder.
- They want the woman back to the husband
- And..?
- The new man is asking one "lack" (100,000 rupees) to give her back , says Bapu seriously.
This is how things are around here. Two thousand euros is roughly the price for a good daughter in law ! A huge amount. The problem will be for the lady once the amount is finally paid .... Despite my astonishment, I pretend that all this is normal to me . If a prince, educated in England, shows no discomfort, who am I, a host and newcomer , to discuss such facts. .....
Shri MOHAMMED SHABBIR Malik (born 1941), married to Riddhi Rani Malik (born 1940)
Shri Malik Jorawar ZAIN KHAN KHAN (1st October 1885-January 1923), succeeded 9th February 1906, married and had an issue.
Pasa nueva y lentamente el tiempo. El príncipe decide, más por cortesía hacia mí que por deferencia hacia sus subditos, ocuparse del asunto. Pide cortesmente permiso y comienzan a hablar.
La anciana aparenta unos ochenta años, impecablemente vestida a la manera Rabari y el marido de igual edad , vestido íntegramente de blanco. Finalmente la audiencia termina a los diez minutos. El matrimonio saluda respetuosamente y parte.
No aguanto la curiosidad; sonriendo me dirijo al príncipe:
- ¿Cual era el problema?
- La nuera ha abandonado al marido.
Me quedo estupefacto. En esta zona de la India una mujer no abandona al marido. Un perro sí, una cabra sí. Pero no una mujer...
- ¿Ha dejado al marido? - digo sin poder ocultar mi cara de asombro - ¿así, sin más?
Bapu viendo mi cara ríe sinceramente,
- ¡ No, no ! - con una carcajada - es que se ha fugado con otro hombre..
Ya me quedo más tranquilo. La cosa encaja. Todo vuelve a su sitio.
- ¿Y qué es lo que esperan? - pregunto.
- Quieren que vuelva
- ¿Y..?
- El nuevo hombre pide 1 lack (100.000 rupias) para devolverla - me contesta muy serio Bapu.
Las cosas son así por estos lares. Unos dos mil euros es lo que cuesta recuperar a tu nuera.Una ingente cantidad. El problema es para la nuera si finalmente pagan el importe....
A pesar de mi asombro, aparento la máxima normalidad. Si el príncipe, educado en Inglaterra, no muestra ninguna incomodidad, no voy a ser yo, huesped recién llegado, el que se ponga a enmendar la plana. Dejo para otro momento y lugar la explicación de estas tremendas peculiaridades culturales..
Malik Shri MOHAMMED SHABBIR (born 1941), married to Rani Riddhi Malik (born 1940)
